It’s been 9 years, 3 months and 19 days since I landed in Tokyo, a little bleary-eyed but eager to see what the Land of the Rising Sun would hold for me. The plan was to stay here a couple of years and then go back to England and start a career in my real […]
Posts Tagged ‘cd9a’
Well, since managing to wreck my car on Sunday, I’ve had a bunch of supporting emails and comments on here and on other online forums, and I thank you all for that. I am currently trying to organise a new set of wheels so I’m no longer a pedestrian, and hopefully I can do that very soon. My Evo will be deregistered and in a junkyard tomorrow, still unfortunately with a bunch of nice parts still attached to it. Unfortunately, I have neither the space nor time to pull them off.
I have had a few amusing responses, although none so much as the one I’m going to feature here, which comprised of just two pictures. Hope they raise a smile with you as much as they did with me!
Not a whole lot more to say about it really. All the quick driving I do and I wreck the car going at normal road speed on a daily drive home. Was close to my home on a normal drive. Doing about 45 and approached a 90 degree turn going left turn. the road was wet but not huge puddles or anything. Dabbed the brakes and turned as normal and the wheels turned, but the car didn’t. Slammed the brakes but car was already heading in a JDM-tyte style drift around the corner and into the other lane. Unfortunately, a Pajero Mini was coming the other way and my drivers side front wheel area slammed into hers.
Before I went into shock (having taught first aid I could feel myself getting the symptoms of it), I dashed over to the other car. She had painful ribs and I thought a couple of them were cracked or broken. She went to hospital in an ambulance but it turns out she’s perfectly fine and was discharged a few hours ago.
Am pretty my car’s chassis has been compromised and bent though and wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a complete write-off. The same for hers. Luckily though she’s not hurt and I walked away from it fine. Funny thing (if there is one here) is that when it got to the garage the flatbed truck guy got in my car, fired up the engine first time and then on 3 wheels drove the thing off the truck.
No excuses, I’ll put my hand up and I ‘fess up. I’m big enough to accept responsibility and despite the road condition and the fact that there was no centreline at all in the road, it was my fault. Wasn’t flying but just must have had too much momentum going into that turn. Just kind of happy I’m here to tell the tale, as well as the other person. Feel free to have jabs at my crap driving, although keep it down a little. Am still a little fragile with some neck stiffness.
Went to insurance today and am pretty sure I have to shoulder 100% of the blame. The good news is that even if I repair the car or buy another of the same make, my insurance would only go up $30! I was expecting it to go up 10 times that. Am thinking it might be a sign to get out of the game a little though and going for something a little slower and cheaper for a while. As my old man said though: 2 minutes later and it could have been a truck coming the other way, which would have just plowed through my car and me.
Found this out very recently and thought it was pretty interesting information and might be relevant to one or two of you. Have been doing some problem solving, trying to find out why my Evo was idling a little rich. I worked my way back to my Sard fuel pressure regulator and checked it out. Firstly, I made sure there were no cuts or tears in the vacuum lines going to the FPR but it looked fine. I then pulled the top vacuum line off it, blocked it with my thumb and checked the pressure with the engine idling. It was at 45psi so I went to take it down to the stock 43.5psi. But no matter what I did I couldn’t get it to go any further. I even had the top elbow unscrew completely but still pressure stayed there.
So I thought “what the hell” and thought I’d live with 45psi, but then when I put the vacuum line back on the top nipple the fuel pressure didn’t change at all. I know it should drop a few psi so I’m thinking my FPR has possibly died on me. But then I did a little research and found that the 2G AWD DSMs suffer from the exact same problem: fuel pressure regulator overrun.
What usually happens in this situation is that the fuel return line isn’t wide enough to take back enough fuel, and so the pressure stays high. But this wasn’t the case in the situation of the Evo I. What I think is causing it is the design of the fuel tank itself. Because of the driveshaft, the fuel tank is basically in 2 separate parts, with a siphon between them that draws fuel from one side of the tank to the other. This is the restriction in the Evo I system and not the fuel pressure regulator. I might be wrong, but I am pretty sure the Evo II and III have a different design of fuel tank (Mitsubishi have it listed with a different part number anyway) with a bigger siphon.
Now there are a number of solutions, the main one being to enlarge the siphon between the fuel tanks, but there is an easier one you can do with your tuning software and is the one that I adopted. I upped the fuel pressure at the FPR to 55psi, and then told my tuning software that my injectors were 840cc and not 750cc ones. Problem is then solved!
Hope this is helpful to someone out there, and is something to think about if you’re idling rich. Note that this problem does not occur when at full throttle; only at idle and light cruising.
I know this will probably only appeal to the car junkies out there, but maybe someone can learn from it so I’ll post it up. Am going to start reporting on the trials and tribulations of tuning my 1992 Mitsubishi Evo and the 4G63 engine inside, and what goes on with the moneypit I like to call my mode of transportation. In brief, I am using The Ostrich chip emulator connected to my stock ECU for tuning purposes, alongside the Tunerpro software. To log the data collected while tuning I am using the Pocketlogger software. And I get my chip code from the excellent and knowledgeable people at geekmapped.com. Prior to my engine blowing up I was running at about 1.65 bar of boost, giving me 1/4 mile times of 11.68s, which is pretty good, all things considered. That should give you an idea of my starting point
I only managed to do a couple of logs this weekend, but they were successful, and despite being a little down on power due to not doing any actual tuning during the session, I was getting almost zero knock (just 2 knock counts for 0.1s at around 6500rpm). Might just throw in a bit more fuel there to sort that out. I was hitting about 1.65 bar of boost and I think holding about 1.6bar right up to redline.
Note that this was with a degree of timing taken out of my current map (which you can also see below, so you know what I’m starting with) at the top end, to be a bit more conservative pre-tuning. Note that the fuel map below does look a little strange, but that’s mainly as I’m using methanol injection (a 75% methanol:water mix) which starts to come in at 1bar. Once I’ve got the fuel load mapping sorted out I can make sure that’s all working as it should. Have to say that even though my overall power figures were a little down as noted on my Rev/Speed Meter (391ps) it felt quick and there is still some boost and timing left to be put back in there. You can tell my power is a little down too, looking at my injector duty cycle.
Am also including a CSV file for Excel of my full run, for completion’s sake. As to whether the car is performing well, we’ll find out this coming Sunday as after work I managed to put my name down as a late entrant for the drag tournament. I think as long as my car is able to drive home under its own power at the end of the day I’ll be pretty happy. Anything more than that will be a bonus!
The car was left in the parking lot at work yesterday while I was at my school festival all day. I got out of work at 7pm and get to the car. Get in and there’s kitchen roll (which was in the back seat) everywhere. My box of wrenches and sockets open and all over the place, one wrench even sitting on my dashboard. I’m thinking “Someone’s got into my car while the festival’s been going on”… but all my doors were locked. And then I noticed the big tear in my rear seat and something sticking in it.
A can of compressed air I had in there for cleaning a few engine parts had exploded in the heat in my car, causing everything to fly all over and the can to rip a hole through the seat, through the foam below it and make a small dent in the fuel pump cover. That must have been some serious explosion in my car, and I’m lucky that no glass was smashed or anything else is damaged.
It is just another thing that needs repairing now (in addition to a new coat of clearcoat being needed on the damn thing). But it still runs I suppose, or it did until 6pm tonight. Who knows about now!
As Canned Heat famously sang many years ago, I’m “On the Road Again”, and boy does it feel good to be able to drive places in my own car. It took a pretty big effort and most of the weekend to get it up and running though, and wasn’t without incident, as you’ll see.
My weekend started early… at 5:30am on Saturday morning to be precise, when I got up and got the bus to Naha and then up to Chatan. Clouds were low and there was some drizzle in the air so I was hoping it would lift and we could have dry weather for the work. I picked up some mineral oil, some synthetic oil and a couple of oil filters and then headed to Starbucks for a coffee. Met up with one of the guys who was going to help me (Matt) and we headed back down to my place. I was pretty lucky as this guy is one of the most knowledgeable engine builders in Okinawa and really knows his stuff when it comes to what needs to be done. Another good buddy of mine, Chris, also came down and helped out.
We set to work doing a bit more cleaning of the engine block, and cleaning & covering in molylube the ARP head studs that were going to be holding the head and block together. The stock headgasket was put in place and the engine lifted on. Although this wasn’t done before Chris had his final chance to leave a mark on the engine, and he did, quite literally! See the photos below (and the “Skrappy” written on one of the pistons refers to the curse he has on me and my car, as discussed here).
Timing belt was a bit of a pain to fit, but that’s mainly due to Mitsubishi’s wonderful lack of ingenuity when it comes to this part of the car. I love the 4G63 engines, but some things about them just defy belief and logic. The marks were all lined up and so to check everything we but a breaker bar into the crankshaft socket and turned the engine over to make sure everything was nice and smooth. It wasn’t.
I fact, it wouldn’t budge an inch. To say my reaction wasn’t one of complete ecstasy would be a gross underestimate! And we’d got the head on, the head studs torqued right up and the timing belt off, and now the prospect of taking everything apart again. And just then, right on cue, the heavens opened and it started to rain. Straight away Matt had an idea of what it could be to cause the engine to seize completely like that, and he told me to drop the oil pan so he can take a look at the rods and crankshaft himself.
Oil pan was dropped as I started to resemble a drowned rat more and more and Matt dropped under. The rod caps nuts on rods 3 and 4 were loosened first and immediately the engine started to move freely. They were hand tightened again and the motor was stuck solid. With some turning of the engine and looking at faded markings he eventually realized that I’d mixed up caps 3 and 4. While you might not think this would make a big difference and there are only thousands of an inch difference, it is enough to turn a free motor into a completely seized one. The caps were swapped and tightened up, and all was well again. Was a little annoyed with myself as I thought I’d matched everything up right, but I hadn’t and at least nothing broke or blew up.
So with the motor running freely, all that was left to do was attach the bolt-on parts and make sure the engine has oil pressure before starting it up, all of which I left until Sunday. It would only take a couple of hours at most and then I would be up and running. The first part was easy; the latter not so much. Giving the engine oil pressure is also known as “priming” it. You don’t want the engine to start and for the oil pump not to be sending oil around the engine as you’ll very quickly ruin parts. And the way you do that is you turn the engine over with the starter but with no spark plugs connected and no fuel going into the cylinders. So I pulled off the cam angle sensor, filled the engine with 10w/40 mineral oil, and got some jumper cables going to my girlfriend’s car. I had to turn the key for 15 seconds or until I got a reading on the oil pressure gauge. If nothing happened after 15 seconds I was to wait for the starter to cool down for a minute and then try again.
So I tried… and tried… and tried. I even tried pulling off the oil filter and pumping oil directly into the engine and pump to try and get some pressure going. I was getting absolutely no oil pressure at all. What should have taken about 15 minutes to do I was doing for almost 3 hours. In the end I was just losing all will to live and the clouds were dropping again signifying rain was on its way. Turning the starter at that slow speed wasn’t enough to get oil pressure so the only thing I could do was to start the engine and watch the oil pressure gauge. If it didn’t register any pressure within the first 5 seconds the engine would be shut off and I would get even more depressed.
Nervously I put the spark plugs back in and finished plugging everything else back in, and then I turned the key. After turning for only about 2 seconds the engine fired up into life once more, and a huge feeling of relief came over me. This thing has been down for almost 2 months and I’ve done a rebuild, on the whole, by myself. I’ve messed things up along the way, but have got advice and have been able to fix my errors, but it’s the first time I’ve ever attempted anything like this and it has been successful. Have to say I did feel proud for a second or 2.
That feeling quickly subsided when I did notice that one of the hoses going to my fuel rail was leaking fuel onto an already very hot intake manifold! I ran to the driver’s side and turned off the ignition before tightening up the hoses and starting it up again, and all was well. I got some lifter tick at the start but once the oil was circulating the noise went away. Same with a bit of smoke that was coming out of the exhaust from any contaminants that had got into the engine. After it was warmed up I turned the engine off and changed out oil and the oil filter (as both would have picked up a lot of grime from the parts that had gone in.
Just got a couple of issues that need ironing out now. First is that the stock tachometer seemed a little dodgy while driving last night, but I think that is down to a dodgy connection somewhere, and it shouldn’t be too much of a problem. The other might be a little more serious, although no huge problem. I think my excessive attempts to get oil pressure into the engine may have caused a little damage to the starter motor, and it’s now screeching for about half a second after the engine starts up. Fortunately I’ve got a spare starter motor on my spare engine, so I’ll put that in when I’ve got the time & inclination, and hopefully before it packs up altogether and I’ve got to resort to push starting it!
But I am running again and the car feels pretty nice actually. I’m on a breaking-in period now which means no really hard driving, but it is great to be in a car again, and one with a little power. I’ll write a little more about how I’m going to break-in the engine in a later post. Once again, many thanks to all those that helped me out. I really appreciate you folks. And hopefully I won’t have to see the sight below again for a very long time.
After what seems like an age (due to my lack of skills and lack of tools) we finally got the head off my dead engine today. Didn’t look in bad shape, and even piston 3 looked ok at a glance, but then we looked a little closer and found exactly what was causing the problem. Take a look for yourself:
Yup, it looks like the piston has melted or something to cause it to do that. Looks like there’s around 2-3mm between the piston and the cylinder wall. Am betting the ringlands have gone and that will be visible once the piston comes out. Don’t know what caused the piston to go like that; maybe detonation and I didn’t notice the CEL flashing in the Okinawan sunlight, or possibly running lean for a split second if the meth didn’t start up as planned.
There also looks to be a tiny bit of scoring on the cylinder wall as you can see below, but hopefully we’ll be able to get that out with a honing tool. It doesn’t seem too deep but will only find out when we start to hone.
So I’m going to order a new piston and rings (am going to try to just get rings for that piston but Mitsubishi only seem to want to sell a whole set of rings for 4 pistons and not for one individual piston). There are 3 standard Mitsu sizes for pistons but I believe it’s the A-type piston that I need. Need to do a bit more research into headgaskets as to whether I go MLS or just the standard one. You’re all probably screaming MLS but it depends what kind of finish I can get from my head after cleaning it with some parts cleaner and Scotchbrite. Due to the lack of machine shops on island if there are any significant marks I might even consider dropping back to a stock one for now. They’ve held a lot of power with DSMs and would cope with a non-mirrored finish. Plus once I’m on the road I need this to be as reliable as possible until I find out whether my future is in Japan or not.
Will report back when I’ve any more news but will probably be in a week or 2 when the transfer case is dropped and the piston pulled out.